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ARCHETYPAL 



CONSUMMATION 



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THE 



ARCHETYPAL CONSUMMATION: 



A SYSTEM OF 



GARMENT DRAFTING, 



Founded upon Practical Experience. 



BY 



YOUNG & RATHVON, 






COIiUMBIA, PA. 

184S. 



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EiitereJ according to Act of Congress, in the year 18'I5, by 
YOUNG & RATIIVON, 

ill llie Office of the Clerk of the District Court of the Eastern District of Pennsylvania. 






Prinieil by J. J. Gosslfr, >^- Co. 



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PREFACE, 

it is with the utmost diffidence in this age of improvement, 
wlien almost every day gives rise to something nevv^ in the 
arts and sciences, that the authors of this work take the liber- 
ty of presenting to tlieir brethren of the trade in general, the 
results of tlieir investigations, researches, and practical labors 
in the science of garment cutting. Nevertheless, after having 
given the subject that due amount of reflection which it re- 
quires, and resting under a (irm conviction that much yet re- 
mains undeveloped connected with our beautiful science, they 
now appear before the public with the assurance of giving full 
satisfaction whei'e its principles are strictly adhered to, a pro- 
attention given, and a fair trial made. 

In presenting this work the authors do not aspire to an en- 
tire originality in all its details : they merely present it as a 
series of practical results, at which they have arrived after a 
combined experience of twenty years in the art and science 
of garment cutting. One important feature, however, they 
do claim as entirely original, inasmuch as it differs from any 
thing extant upon the subject, and is the foundation on which 
the superstructure is mainly built, namely : the Shoulder 
Pitch. It is this that always has been and is the great desid- 
eratum with the trade. It has been found in many cases, that 
after the shoulder measures and other prooi measures have 
been taken with all imaginable care and correctness, there 
has been an utter failure in producing the desired effect in the 
application thereof, inasmuch as no permanent 'starting point' 
could be established without first having the shoulder pitched 
to its proper place to suit thp particular form of the customer,- 



4V 



and it is perfectly obvious to any experienced cutter that the 
garment may be cut in perfect accordance with the most cor- 
rect measurement, and yet the result may involve him in dis- 
appointment, and frustrate all his anticipations. 

Another new feature is the manner in which the skirt spring 
is obtained, that it may adapt itself to any form of forepart, — 
which will be detailed in its proper place in the body of the 
work. 

The authors are aware that the objection of complication 
will be brought to bear against their system, and that some- 
thing more simple and with fewer lines and measures would 
be more acceptable to the trade, but a long experience in the 
science of cutting has convinced them that it is not the siii^ 
pie thing that many flatter themselves it is, and that as thera 
are almost as great a variety of forms as there are of counte- 
nances, therefore practical results are more to be depended 
upon than any general system— nevertheless it may claim 
simplicity as its chief merit. 

With these remarks, and a desire to have its merits fairly 
tested, and in the hope that an impartial and candid fraternity 
will give it that consideration which they flatter themselves 
it so richly deserves, the "Archetypal Consummation" is 
here submitted to the trade by 

THE AUTHORS. 



add an inch or more to each of your shoulder measures, un- 
less you should measure your customer over an over coat or 
hangup. For coats that hutton up close to the neck, after 
having taken the length of the lappcl, you will place your 
right hand firmly against the point of its required length, and 
with the left hand pass the measure up along the front of 
breast to the required height of the neck, and deduct the over- 
plus from the full length of the lappell, and note the hallance 
in your book. Proceed in the same manner for vests and 
roundahouts, that are required to be buttoned up close to the 
neck, and also take a measure around the neck for its width. 
All other measures, such as sleeve, breast, waist, &c., in the 
usual mode. 

For vests, take the breast and waist, where there is no coat- 
measure taken, and refer to the graduated scale for the meas- 
ure by which to cut it. 

For pants the most important is the hip measure, as they 
are cut by a division of that measure — other measures in the 
usual manner. 

For linen, bombazine or any other material that requires a 
large seam, do not neglect to make a due allowance, as a gar- 
ment cut too tight is always more liable to remain "on your 
hands" than one that is a trifle too large. 

For drafting coats, in every instance you will draft by a di- 
vision of the first and second shoulder measure. 

Both sides of the customer should be measured, and if there 
is any difference that difference should be divided. 






^7-s- -f~~ 




PLATE II-DRAFT I. OF THE BACK. 

Lay your cloth with the crease towards yoii and the 
grain to run from right to left — then draw the line A close 
on the edge, and square the line B at bottom. With your 
measure obtain the distance to E and thence to D— lay the 
angle of your square at the junction of D and A and the 
long arm two inches or more in on E, [as fancy or fashion 
may direct,] and draw the line C and at the same time 
square the line D with it. From D to the mark at the 
bottom of scye [or C on the figure] thence to the hollow of 
waist [or D on the figure] you will obtain by the meas- 
ures you have taken to these points. From bottom of scye 
to F, is an I, from F to G ihere is no permanent distance, 
but is subject at all times to taste or fashion. Square F, 
and G, and go out on F a J, and from this point square the 
line H with F. I'he width of the back will be governed 
by the measure which has been previously taken for that 
part of the garment. On the line D go out an I, and form 
the line I by a sweep or "crooked stick." The line E should 
be parallel with F and the width between the hip buttons 
governed by the style of the garment. The line J is gov- 
erned by the prevailing fashion at the time the garment is 
cut, and so also is K. After the back is cut out, make a 
notch at the hollow of waist, bottom of scye, and where the 
line H crosses the line I: if the distance from the line F 
to D is more than a I make a notch where the 3 is, but if 
less, pay no attention to it. 

PLATE IL-DRAFTII. OF THE FOREPART. 

Draw the line A on the edge of cloth opposite to where 
you have taken ihe back out— square B with the bottom- 
then lay the lower point of the back side-seam at the an- 



gle of A and B and the upper point on the Une A, with 
the back-seam towards you and make a mark, and this will 
give you the length of side-seam for the forepart. Then 
lay line F of the back, opposite the mark for top of side- 
seam, with the back-seam along the line A, and make a 
mark where you have notched the back at bottom of scye, 
and from these two marks square the lines C and D : — 
Go out on the line C a 3, and square E from D— from D on 
the line E to the small star is the distance having that 
character on the square. Square the line F from E line 
at the star — the F is however not permanently fixed at that 
point, but is merely given here as a guide for the new be- 
ginner. Go out on the line C from E a I and square the 
line G from C— go down on G a 2 and make a mark— go in 
from the line G on C an I and make a mark— draw the line 
H from the marks on G and C up through K and F. This 
line gives the shoulder its proper pitch the variations of 
which will be noticed at the end of this article. Go in on 
the line D from the base of E an J, and mark it. From F 
go down on the line II an I, and make a mark, lay the 
angle point of your square on the line F and the outer 
edge of the long arm to strike the marks on H and D, 
and along the short arm draw the line X — the line X is 
also governed more or less by the shoulder measures and 
is merely given as a guide. Go out from front of scye on 
line C a i for front of the breast, and as much more or less 
as your breast measure, fashion, or the peculiar style of 
the coat shall dictate. Go up on E from Dai, and lay 
the angle of your square at the mark with the short arm 
towards you and the outer edge of the long arm at the I 
mark on D, and draw the line K : this line has also no 
permanent position- but is governed more or less by the 



FLATii^ III. 




prevailing customs of the day. After all these lines have 
been obtained lay your back with the upper point of the 
side-seam on the line C, the bottom of the back-seam at 
the angle of A and B, and the notch (where H crosses I 
on the back,) on the line A: lay the other back along the 
line X with the one point of the top on F and the other 
on H : form the front of scye as per draft : then apply the 
proof measures as shown on Plate III, draft I, as follows : 
From A around in front of scye to A; if it should be too 
long or too short, move the upper back to suit, always 
keeping on the line H : next from A to C or blade meas- 
ure, which, should it require it, you will alter to suit the 
measure at blade point, and mark your side-seam so far 
as the first position will permit : then apply the 2nd and 
3rd shoulder measures from B to B, and from C to C, and 
should it require it alter the shoulder point to suit the 
measures. Go in a J of the waist measure from the line 
C and make a mark (Plate II, Draft II,) which will serve 
as a guide how far to draw the back in, in bringing it to 
the second position: before you move your back from the 
first position, you will form your scye ; apply the scye mea- 
sure and if necessary take some off of the shoulder point: 
the lower point from the lines D to C should be an I oi 
the neat scye measure. Apply your ballance measure and 
alter to suit if necessary : apply your hip, lappell, breast 
and waist measures. The best guide for a well ballanced 
lappell, is to sweep its length from the socket point A by 
the waist point of the forepart. 

VARIATIONS OF FOREPART. 

If the 1st shoulder measure should be larger or smal- 
ler than the 2nd, then go in the I on the line C from G 
with the 1st shoulder measure instead of the 2nd. The 



10 

reason will be obvious at a glance, where the 1st shoulder 
measure is the largest, it shows the person to be straight 
with the head more thrown back, and consequently re- 
quires the shoulder to be pitched further back. On the 
contrary, if the 1st shoulder measure is the smallest, it 
shows the person to be somewhat stooped and the head 
more forward, and therefore requires the shoulder to be 
pitched forward; if the 3rd shoulder measure be very large 
in proportion to the others, it shows the person to be high 
shouldered, and therefore requires the shoulder point to 
be raised to suit the form ; if on the contrary it be propor- 
tionally small, it indicates low shoulders, and consequently 
the shoulder point to be sunk. 

If as has been remarked in the explanations of the back, 
the distance from the line E to D be more than a 3 you 
will notch it on both sides, and place the notches instead 
of the top of the back, on the lines F and H : this will 
bring the gorge as much in front of the line H as the dis- 
tance from E to D is more than a J: this rarely occurs, 
however, only where the person is very round shouldered 
or very long necked, when in either case it is highly 
necessary. For coats that button up apply the neck meas- 
ure, and the measure in front of breast for heighth of 
neck as explained in the article on the mode of measure- 
ment. 

All coats that are not wadded in the breast should be 
pitched a little further back in the shoulder, 

PLATE II— DRAFT III. OF THE SKIRT. 

Before proceeding to draft you will first obtain the prop? 
er amount of spring that will be required for the particu- 
lar form of the forepart — as the forepart has more influ- 
ence over the spring of a skirt, than any customer can 



11 

have, whatever his shape may be. For example : if the front 
of the forepart be thrown down very low (as the present fash- 
ion favours) it requires less spring than if cut short in front 
and vice versa : therefore if your customer is of a straight 
form with a prominent chest you will naturally give him a 
long lappell : if on the other hand, his form is stooped and 
chest contracted a contrary course will be pursued and you 
will cut the lappell proportionably short — in cither of which 
cases it is evident there could be no general spring given to 
suit all forms, and that some practical and self variable mode 
should be established that would adapt itself to every variety 
of forepart. First lay your back in a closing position with the 
forepart, with the back-seam towards you — that is the upper 
and lower points of side-seam of back and forepart together — ^ 
then draw a line from the lappell point to the waist point and 
across the back ; then lay the long arm of the square (lower 
side up) with the outer edge along t^e back-seam, with the 
character V, where the line you have drawn crosses the back- 
seam, and note the figure or fraction on the short arm of the 
square that forms a junction with line from lappell to waist 
point, and this will give you a proper key to the spring re- 
quired, and you will then be ready to draft your skirt with 
some degree of certainty. Proceed as follows; draw the line A 
on the edge of cloth, and after having obtained the length re- 
quired for the skirt make a mark, then lay character V (up- 
per side) at the mark you have made, with the edge of the long 
arm of the square on line A and strike the angle B on the 
short arm of the square that corresponds in number, to the 
one you have previously taken on the under side, whilst the 
forepart and back were in a closing position : the line E should 
be parallel or nearly so, with B; C is formed by a curved rule 
or otherwise — the form of the skirt is governed by the pre- 



12 

Trailing customs of the day: the top of line C is about three in- 
ches in from the line A, but when the lappell and waist points 
are cut long as in the present fashion, the top of the skirt should 
be formed as is represented on the drafts of skirts : the V's 
may be taken out of the top of skirt, or not at the option of 
the cutter, but if not taken out they require more fullness to 
sewed in. 

ANOTHER MODE OF DRAFTING A SKIRT 




Lay ihe back and forepart in a closing position, as rep- 
resented in the above cut No. 1 ; let the back-seam be line 
A : draw the line B touching the waist and lappell points ; 
go out on B a J and square the line C from B line ; go up 
on C a J and draw the line D; then square the line E from 
the line A and go out on it a 3, and whatever the difference 



13 

is, at that distance, between the lines D and E; note it down 
and it will be the required spring of the skirt. 

APPLICATION. 

Draw line A as represented in the cut No. 2 ; square B 
from A : go in on B a 3 and square C : go up on C the 
difference you have obtained as directed in No. 1, and draw 
the line D. In all other respects form the skirt as direct- 
ed in another part of the work on skirts. The same prin- 
ciple can be applied to the coatee skirt. 

PLATE II-DRAFT IV- OF THE SLEEVE. 

Draw the line A on the edge of the cloth, then apply your 
measure from sleeve-hand to elbow, and from thence up on 
the line A the full length of the sleeve, (back included) and 
make a mark ; from mark go down a 3 to the small star, and 
from thence a I to the base of the line Bj square B with A; then 
lay your back on as represented on the plate and obtain the 
starting point for the line D; go out on the line B a I and down 
on A a J, draw the line C from the J on A to the I on B, and 
go up on C a J to the small star™this will form a pivot to sweep 
the line D from line A to line E, which is half the scye meas- 
ure across on B; if you cannot reach the distance with the 
sweep for the line D, then sweep as much of it as yoti can 
reach and form the front by your eye, giving it a gentle curve 
so as to intersect the curve of the under-sleeve ; the under- 
sleeve should be cut as represented on the draft, taking care 
that the line G should not come, or at least very little below 
the line B; the upper sleeve should be drawn in on the under- 
sleeve as much in the front arm-seam as the back arm-seam — 
and in order not to require too much fullness, the upper 
sleeve should be hooked in as represented ; the general ap- 
pearance or shape will be governed by fancy or fashion. 



14 

REMARKS. 

As it is almost impossible for an author to be as clearly un- 
derstood, or to convey as correct an idea of what he intends, 
in writing, as he can by oral teaching — therefore, the forego- 
ing will necessarily be intersperced with some imperfections. 
Nevertheless, by a proper attention on the part of the pupil — 
a frequent recurrence to the drafts, and the exercise of a mod- 
erate share of taste and judgment — a common intellect will 
be enabled to obtain a sufficient knowledge ol the system, to 
convince him of its intrinsic value, and of the correctness of 
its general principles. 

PLATE III— DRAFT II. OF THE COATEE, OR 
BUSINESS SKIRT. 

You will obtain the spring for this skirt the same[as descri- 
bed for a dress coat, but the application is somewhat different. 
First draw the line A on the edge of the cloth, and after hav- 
ing obtained the length, square the line B from A for the top 
of skirt : then measure across on 15 the distance j^ou require, 
including fullness, and strike the angle C, in the same man- 
ner that you do the angle B in draft 3, plate II, from the lines 
E and F, and also the top, front, and plaite of skirt as represen- 
ted in the draft, or according to the existing [style at cutting. 

PLATE III— DRAFT III. FROCK OR OVER- 
COAT SKIRT. 

Draw line A on the edge of the cloth, obtain the length of 
the skirt and square the line C : lay the angle point of the 
square at the base of the line C, and strike the an- 
gle B five degrees on the short arm of the square, more 
or less, as the case may require ; if the customer is of an 
erect form with prominent buttocks, he will require a higher 



I 



FLATI': IV 




15 

angle than one of a contrary form— measure across on the 
line B the distance required including fullness and lap- 
pells : the line D is an angle which is left to the discre- 
tion of the cutter, and is governed more or less by style, 
however, lest the young beginner should not have suffi- 
cient faith in his ov^rn taste or judgment, the following may 
be an assistance to him: After having obtained the requi- 
red distance on line B make a mark, and place where 
the 3's commence on the long arm of the square to said 
mark, and strike the angle I on the short arm— this will 
give you a very tasty frock-skirt spring, and one that may 
be relied on; in the majority of cases — form the top, plaite, 
and bottom of the skirt as represented on the draft. 

PLATE IV— DRAFT L OF THE VEST 
FOREPART. 

Draw the line A on the edge of the cloth and square B 
for the bottom ; go in on B a 2 and square the line C, and 
an 8 and square the line D : then with the length you have 
taken for the vest, after deducting a * for width of back 
at the top, sweep the line E ; go out on E a 4— from where 
the line E strikes the line A, go down a a and square the 
line F ; from F go up a J and square the line G ; go in on 
the line G from C a I and form the scye on line H ; from 
where the line E touches A go up a J, and from thence 
draw the line I diagonally through the square formed by 
the crossings of C, D and F, G ; form the lines L, K, D 
and the gorge as represented on the draft, or according to 
the particular form of the customer; the lines M and N 
are for a double breasted vest; the length up the front and 
the size of the gorge, is obtained the same as described for 
a button-up coat : the line J is to represent a vest with a 
heavy roll for which you will go down on the line I from 



16 

line D a J ; the line P represents a vest without a roll. 

VARIATIONS- 

If the customer is stooped or high shouldered, then raise 
the line E and pitch the shoulder more forward 'as repre- 
sented on the draft ; and if he be large around the waist 
in proportion to the breast, then the line L should not be 
drawn in so much as represented, and also the line O 
should be brought more forward at the bottom, to suit the 
particular degree of corpulency. 

PLATE IV— DRAFT II. OF THE VEST BACK. 

The line A is the fold of the material out of which the 
back is to be cut ; B is squared for the bottom : go out on 
B a I and make a mark ; lay the forepart as represented on 
the plate and apply the breast and waist measures neat, 
allowing only as much as the seam and turn in require : 
then take the length from the J on B to the top of the fore- 
part upper point, and sweep the line C : go out on C a e: go 
down on A a 6 and square the line D : go out on D a J, 
and from thence to the I on C, draw a line for the shoul- 
der seam : having marked the top and bottom of side-seam, 
allow as much as you deem sufficient, and form the lines 
G and F. 

VARIATIONS. 

The line E, as in the forepart, for stooped or prominent 
shoulders will require to be raised as represented on draft. 

Vests as well as all other garments treated of in this 
work, are cut by the second shoulder measure. But where 
the customer is measured for a vest alone, or should he 
have no coat on at the time, a simple breast measure may 
be taken, and the following table consulted, which will 



17 

give the corresponding shoulder measure to it, and by which 
the garment must be drafted in all cases. 

Breast Measures. Corresp'ding Shoulder Meas. 

20 , , 15 

21 15;' 

22 161 

23 171 

24 18 

25 185 

26 19^ 

27 201 

28 21 

29 1\\ 

30 22^ 

31 23J 

32 24 

33 245 

34 C5i 

35 * 263 

36 27 

37 275 

38 . 28J 

39 291 

40 30 

41 305 

42 3U 

43 321 

44 33 

45 335 

46 341 

47 351 

PLATE IV— DRAFT III. OF PANTALOONS. 

A is the edge of the cloth : B is squared for the top : 
go from line B down on A to within an inch or less of the 
full length of the pants, and square the line C • go up the 



18 

length of crotch (as much less as you have deducted from 
the full length) and square the line D : go out on D a J of 
the hip measure, and also a I of the same measure which 
you will find on the long arm of the square underwise : 
square the line E from D : go in on an imaginary or dot- 
ted line O the \ of the waist measure, and form the lines I 
and H ; draw the line F about an inch and a half in from 
the line A at the bottom ; go in on line according to your 
measure (say about a 3 of the bottom measure) draw the 
line G from the 3 on D to the 3 on C, and from the bottom 
of forepart as per draft : lay your forepart on the cloth out 
of which you intend to cut the hindpart ; draw the line N 
about an inch or less below the line C of forepart : go out 
on line N 3 of the bottom measure : draw the line M about 
an inch outside of line G of the forepart at top and from 
the bottom, as represented on draft ; and, also, the lines 
J and K. 

\ A R I A T I O N S . 

The above is for pants with a slash. If, however, you 
desire pants with a whole fall, or plaited pants, then let 
the line O represent the top, and for the latter omit the 
line I, and if necessary add some in width at the top yet : 
for gaiter bottoms let the foreparts be something less than 
a third wide at the bottom, and the hindparts something 
more than 3 wide, and shape them accordingly : for straight 
pants or those that are shaped to the leg, draw a line at 
the knee and form them accordingly to measure. 

Those of the craft who may prefer Scott's scales will 
strike a \ for line E of hip measure, and 3 and one 24th 
for distance across crotch ; and Ward's or Mahaii's scale, 
will require those who may use them, to go sixteen por- 
tions to line E of hip measure, and 62 portions more for 
distance across crotch. 



FLATi^] 




19 

PLATE V-DRAFT I. OF THE SACK, (BACK.) 

Draw the line A on the crease of cloth ; obtain the 
length of the garment, and sweep the line B by it, making 
the pivot about 3 inches out on line D : obtain the length 
of waist and angle the line C : go in on C about 2 inches 
[[more or less according to style] and from thence draw the 
line E, and square the line D : go down on E the depth of 
scye measure and square the line F: go up from F a I and 
square the line G : go out on F a 3 and square H : from F 
go out on F an 8 : go out on D an 8 : go out on C from E 
the 6 of the neat waist measure : and on B the I of the hip 
measure and form the back scye, and lines I and J as rep- 
resented on the draft, or agreeably to the ruling custom of 
the day. 

VARIATIONS. 

If you require a loose sack without a seam in the back 
then you will omit the line E, and square D, F and G from 
A, and shrink the back in along the line A at the waist, 
and stretch J a little opposite the shrinking. 

- PLATE V— DRAFT 11. OF THE FOREPART. 

Draw the line A a sufficient distance in from the edge of 
cloth to give room for the bottom of the line J, should 
the goods be wide enough ; then with your back find the 
length of skirt and square B : then square C by the dis- 
tance from C to F on your back: go out on C a 3 and 
square D : go up on D an I and square E : go out on E 
a I and square F : go down on F a 2 and in on E an | and 
draw the line G ; go up on D from C a I and also to star 
with the corresponding character on the square, and square 
the line H ; go in on C from D an I and down on G from 
H an 8 and obtain the lines K and X the same as describ- 
ed in a dress coat ; apply the back on the lines A and C 



20 

and apply the proof measure, and on X the same as described 
for dress coat, with the exception that you will follow the di- 
rections given in the forepart of this work in regard to over- 
coats and sacks ; and, also, the ballance measure should not be 
drawn in neat but from 2 to 3, 4 and even 5 inches should be 
added to that measure in some cases, according to the particu- 
lar style in which the garment may be desired ; for a close 
sack a fish should be taken out of each forepart as represent- 
ed : go out on E from D a 2 and if the garment is single-breast- 
ed add the necessary quantity outside of it : apply the neck 
measure for length and heighth as described, and form line I 
and P : if on the contrary you desire a double-breasted sack 
then add something more in front of breast and form the line 
O, or if you wish, cut the lappells off as represented ; form the 
line J agreeably to measure, and spring out the skirt at the 
bottom according to the desired style of the garment : form 
the line M as represented on the draft. 

OF THE SACK SLEEVE. 

Observe the same direction in drafting the sleeve of sack as 
for any other coat, excepting a due alloAvance for drawing it 
on when intended to be worn over another coat. 

PLATE V— DRAFT III- OF THE CLOAK, 

OR MANTLE. 
Cut the cloth into two equal pieces, and open it out the full 
width with the grains running towards the left, and on the 
edge towards you draw the line A ; go up from the bottom 
on A the neat length of the cloak and mark ; from the mark 
go up a J and square the line B across the cloth : go irom B 
a \ and square the line C : go in on B a J and on C a ^ ; angle 
D, at what over the size or style of the garment shall indi- 
cate ; draft the line F two inches longer at the line 13 than at 
Aj and four inches shorter at D than at A j this will give the 



^1 

cloak its proper length over the shoulder, (which takes up a- 
bout two inches) and in front, which would otherwise droop 
too much ; form the gorge or line E as represented on the 
draft and take out the gores as marked, which will give the 
mantle a better hitch on the shoulders, and cause it to remain 
in its place, even when it is not clasped or tied. 

Capes for cloaks, surtouts, over-coats, &c.,may be cut by the 
same draft, with the following variations : go up from length 
to line B an l; and from thence to C a J; go in on B a «, and on 
C an e ; give the cape any fullness you desire and form the 
gorge accordingly. 

In drafting a cloak as in a sack you will draft by the second 
shoulder measure takeh loose, or an inch added to the neat 
measure ; take a gorge measure and apply it, which will give 
you the precise amount to be taken out at the gores. 

CONCLUSION. 

The authors cannot dismiss the subject without making a 
few general remarks in conclusion, on the indispensible neces- 
sity of a proper exercise of taste and judgment in making as 
well as in drafting and cutting garments. If a coat even should 
be well and 'tastily' cut, itoften happens through the inexperi- 
ence or want of a sufficient artistical knowledge on the part 
of the maker, that the garment is totally spoiled ; and the ve- 
ry effect for which the cutter so long and so laboriously toil- 
ed, has been utterly destroyed, and himself subjected to the 
most intense disappointment, and wounded sensibility. Ar 
old gentleman of the trade in the city of Baltimore used to 
remark :— "When I look at my coats after they are cut out, 
they make me laugh, but when they are brought in made up, 
they make me cry," and there is not the least doubt but that 
he had just cause to weep over such a wanton spoliation of 
broad cloth. Even a bad cut coat may be improved very 



22 

much in appearance by a 'tasty' maker, and it is no excuse for 
him to say " the coat was cut a buzzard, therefore I made it 
up a buzzard," because making a coat and cutting one, are 
two different things, for there are certain effects that are pro- 
duced in making alone, which no cutting can reach ; and, 
therefore, it is of the first importance that the maker should 
have a thorough knowledge ot his department of the business, 
that he may be the better enabled to understand fully the in- 
tentions of his " Crook," which in the end will certainly re- 
dound to his own credit and will ultimately advance his own 
best interests. This result can only be brought about by re 
quiring apprentices to the business to serve a reasonable length 
of time to it, which would also prevent in a great measure the 
dissipated and licentious habits so prevalent among our trade. 
As we remarked in our preface Tailoring is not the easy thing 
that it is generally "cracked up to be" — (to use a vulgar 
phrase ;) and, therefore, those who adopt it as their pro- 
fession and avocation, should be actuated by the proper 
spirit, and be ambitious to excel in it, as it is one that has 
decided advantages over many others ; moreover, the bus- 
uiess is becoming every day more complicated, and it would 
seem necessarily so, as it is the only means by which the 
craft can compete with the host of '* rag-shops" that are 
springing up like mushrooms, and exercise a ruinous in- 
fluence on the trade, throughout the length and breadth of 
our land. No apprentice should be taken for a less peri- 
od than five years, but in many instances a longer period 
is absolutely necessary. This period is comparatively a 
short one, in connection with a man's lifetime, or the in- 
fluence it is calculated to have over him in future years. 
When he first goes to the trade, he is as helpless as a 
child just emerged into existence, and therefore it requires 
months and sometimes years before he can offer the least 



• 23 

compensation to his mastei' for the pains and anxieties and 
morlifications he has incurred on his account. And when 
at length he does become free, he can "cast his bark upon 
the Ocean" wuh some kind of confidence, and with the as- 
surance that he will not "strike a bar and bilge" the very 
first " port" he attempts to "enter." Many young men 
come out of their apprenticeships with scarcely knowledge 
sufficient to construct a wagon cover, and of course most 
egregiously ignorant of the business, and yet their employers 
are, in a manner, compelled to give them employment, be. 
cause to pursue a different course would be to reflect upon 
themselves and upon all the work they had previously made; 
and, therefore, in a sort of charity to the feelings of anoth- 
er, these things are continued at the daily sacrifice and 
laceration of your own. On the other hand it often hap- 
pens that an active, intelligent and persevering boy is put 
under a stupid, dissipated and worthless master ; in such 
a case we would say "break the bonds that bind two un- 
willing hearts together," for it is better— nay the best thing 
that can be done for both master and man. 

These things adhered to many evils will be obviated, a 
millenium in the science of Tailoring will have commen- 
ced, and our trade assume that rank in society for which 
it was by nature and "Nature's God" intended. 

Hoping that the foregoing hints may be taken in that 
spirit of kindness and good intention by which alone they 
were dictated, and with a lively interest in the welfare of 
the legitimate trade in general, we very respectfully sub- 
scribe ourselves your fellow tradesmen and 

Humble Servants, 

THE AUTHORS. 



24 

TERMS 

The price of the System, including books, 
square, level, and full instructions in drafting, 
will in all cases be - - - - -SIOOO 

Persons at a distance without requiring per- 
sonal instruction, will be furnished the full 
system at - - - . - 8 00 

For book and draft alone (without square,) 8 00 

For square alone, - - - - - 3 00 

For book wuhout drafts, . . . 5 00 

Address B. YOUNG, Columbia, or 

S. S. RATH VON, Marietta, Pa. 

In all cases Post-Paid. 



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